FLATS FISHING

Bonefishing with a fly rod can be considered one of the most visually stimulating and challenging enterprises an angler can engage in. There is much to learn. Elements like wind speed, current, angle of light, fly-weight, and water depth all add to the complexity of this sport. Even so, we don't have to be pros at this before we come to the water. A few pointers will at least help us understand what the heck the guide is talking about.

Bonefishing Tips

RESEARCH: The first step in catching any fish is to understand their behaviour and habitat. Bonefish (Abula vulpes) mainly forage on the bottom and although they will take a fly quite close to the surface are more apt to pick a fly up than chase one down. Practically speaking this means one should move the fly less, not more. These are not bonita or jacks, and fast 2-foot strips won't get it done. I find it is usually best to begin with a sloooowww strip and if the fish follows let the fly drop for the pickup.

SEEING FISH:

Bonefishing is a visual sport and spotting them is half the fun. Seeing fish in a new environment can be tough. Anglers who regularly fish the bone-white flats of the Bahamas can easily spot the shadow of a bone 150 feet out. However, they often have no idea what to look for over the dark, grassy flats of many Caribbean islands or the Florida Keys. Here a local guide can be invaluable.

Wherever you are, you won't be able to see them without a good pair of polarized sunglasses. The best colors for flats fishing are copper or vermilion. Both these tints offer good contrast and accentuate colors to make fish easier to spot. Gray lenses are best left for off-shore fishing.

Bonefish show themselves in 4 main ways. First, feeding or traveling bonefish often create wakes or nervous water . Singles or small groups create pronounced V-wakes as they cross shallow water while schools disturb a larger area of the surface. A quick shot ahead of the wake can often produce. Remember, the tail of the fish causes the wake, so you should cast at least 5 feet ahead to make sure you don't line the fish. The only trouble with fishing to wakes or nervous water is not knowing for certain you are casting to bonefish. Wakes can be caused by any number of fish that also frequent shallow water. Happily, many of these are also great fun on fly tackle so casting at any wakes is a good idea.

Secondly, on sunny days you can see the fish themselves through the water. This is by far easiest over light colored, sandy bottom where the dark shapes of bonefish can be seen from quite a distance. When they are facing directly toward or away from you their dark backs are very distinct – almost a "coke-bottle" green. If you see a fish then suddenly lose it, this often means it has turned its side to you. Scan to the left and right of where you saw it and you'll usually pick it up again. Bonefish are highly reflective and mirror their environment with near perfection. If a fish turns sideways to you often the only sign is its shadow. As you search a flat, scan for any movement out of the ordinary. Under a noontime sun often the only thing you can see is their shadows ghosting over the flat.

The easiest bonefish to find are tailing fish . When a feeding fish tips down and its tail breaks the surface this is called ‘tailing'. Beginners often look for the flashing, silvery tails as sure sign they are looking at bonefish. (After all, wakes could be anything.) Bonefish usually tail in a pattern – tailing, swimming a few feet and tailing again. Since this usually occurs in very shallow water, it calls for quiet presentations with lightly weighted flies. A good strategy is cast while the fish has its tail in the air feeding. At that moment they are usually preoccupied with what is directly in front of them, so you can cast quite close. Let the fly sit until the tail goes down and then twitch it to get the fish's attention. Be aware that tailing fish are often very spooky, but this is what makes them so rewarding and earns it the title "champagne of the sport."

Finally, over softer bottoms bonefish make “puffs” or muds as they feed. Puffs are little patches of cloudy water that mark where a fish has used its nose to root out prey buried in the bottom. Usually seen over grassy bottom and appearing in a series, puffs can mark the direction bonefish are feeding. Cast ahead of the freshest puff, let the fly sink to fish level, and begin a slow, steady retrieve, pausing occasionally. Bones will often hit on those pauses.

CASTING:

Before you make a saltwater fishing trip, practice your casting, and then practice some more. You're paying good money for a guide to put you on fish and he'll work hard all day to do so. You owe it to him and yourself to be able to get the fly to the fish when the time comes. Not many of us are Lefty Kreh or Flip Pallot, but you don't have to be. Distance is not nearly as important as accuracy. A lot of guides will tell you that most anglers miss bonefish because they were too close and the angler couldn't get off a shot in time, not because they were too far away! Many bonefish (and other flats species) are hooked within 40 feet because the angler got off a quick, accurate shot. False casting a half dozen times merely ensures a spooked fish. So, in those practice sessions focus on speed and accuracy. Allow yourself only 3 false casts for distances up to 70 feet - 2 for 40 and under. If you're a beginner, consider taking a few lessons from an experienced caster. Many local fly shops offer private lessons. Or, try out some of the great instructional videos on the market. (Lefty Kreh has a great saltwater casting video I recommend.)

EQUIPMENT:

Carry the right gear. Most professional guides are prepared with extra tackle in case of emergencies, but the best flats fishing often takes place in remote locations where gear is not easy to come by. For bonefish an 8-weight rod rigged with a matching Weight-Forward Floating line is the best all-round setup. Reels should have smooth, dependable drags and a minimum of 150 yards of 20-pound backing. Large arbors let you pick up line fast when a big fish turns and runs back at you. Leaders should be in the 10-12 pound range and 10-14 feet long. Note: Bonefish are not leader-shy. Carry an extra spool of 12-lb tippet material, and when a leader gets too short from changing flies you can easily add a little more length of the right strength. The Blood knot and the Double Surgeons are both good knots for adding tippet. Polarized sunglasses are a must for seeing fish. You don't have to spend $200, but you get what you pay for. The more expensive models are lighter, easier to wear and last longer. As a backup carry an inexpensive pair. (Once when I was in the Bahamas I used an $11 pair I picked up at a booth in the airport. They did the job just fine.) Wading shoes are a necessity for locations where the bottom is grassy or rocky. An encounter between bare feet and sharp coral, broken shells or spiny sea urchins can end a trip fast. Zip-up neoprene and rubber booties are the best but again, there are inexpensive options. An old pair of tennis shoes work great, and you can just toss them after your trip.

THE HOOK-UP:

So, your gear is set and we've got the fish in our sights. What now? First, you have to get the fish to see the fly. This means accurately predicting where the fish is going to be, if it's moving. Remember, during the presentation cast don't look at the fish. Instead look at the exact spot you want your fly to be. Typically this is 3-10 feet in front of the fish, or on the "eye-side" if it's moving at right angles to your cast. By no means cast behind the fish, as this will usually trigger a "flee" reflex – only predators approach from behind. If you do cast beyond (and behind) the fish, don't strip the fly or it will appear to be "attacking" the fish. If you simply let the fly sink, a bonefish will often turn and grab it on the drop.

Once the fish sees the fly and follows it, let him catch it. This may only mean pausing in your retrieve or actually letting it sink to the bottom altogether. Rely on your guide for advice here. He will usually know from the fish's reaction what is the best way to get a bite. If you pause and the fish darts forward, it's got the fly. Now, DO NOT RAISE THE ROD yet. Just make a long strip until you feel the weight of the fish. This is the most delicate part of the operation for it is easy to snap 10-pound tippet by holding on too tight or slamming the fly home. Once the line is tight you can finally raise the rod. Remember, you don't have to strike bonefish the way you do trout. Raising the rod is only to cushion the tippet from that first run and keep the line off the bottom where it might catch on coral or mangrove shoots. Bonefish have soft mouths that hold a hook well. Merely coming tight usually sets the hook and their first run (at around 25mph) drives it in even further.

Once you've hooked the fish the first thing is to get them on the reel. Never try to hand-line a bonefish of any size! The safest way is to hold on gently while the fish takes any loose line. Be aware that if the fish eats the fly close to you, there can be a good bit of this loose line. Watch yourself clear this line no matter how tempting it is to watch the fish run. Any bonefish angler can testify that having a loop of line wrap around the handle is about the worst way to lose a fish. Like the picture above, I like to hold the rod tip high while clearing the line. This helps keep the fish's head up and keep him from immediately snagging you on coral or mangroves. Whenever a fish is running away from you, keep that rod tip high. Only when fighting the fish should you lower the rod tip to put pressure on him.

Most of all, remember to have fun. Patience and a sense of humor not only makes us better angers but it makes us better anglers to be around.

If you have questions or comments on these bonefishing tips, or would like to book your own Cayman bonefishing trip please use our Inquiries page or email guide Davin Ebanks at davin@fish-bones.com.