Bonefish Fly Recipe & How-To
Here's a pattern that, tying wise, is based pretty strongly on Brian O'Keefe's Bonefish Turd while the color and material is based on Vaverka's Mantis Shrimp - a killer bonefish pattern (that I've always said needs a weedguard). What really pushed me to tie it though, was an attempt to simplify one of my own patterns, The Usual. Blond Craft Fur is about my favorite material for bonefish flies; there's just something about that color and translucency that get's fish to bite. It has zero bouyancy, so it sinks fast - always a paramount goal for bonefish flies - and doesn't absorb water like wool or other natural materials, so it lands quietly on the water. In this pattern I use the 'underfur' from regular old Craft Fur (not the 'Select' stuff) for the dubbing. What I like to do is tie up some Gotchas or Qwans first using the long Craft Fur fibers for the wings and saving the underfur for dubbing on these flies.
*With appologies to Brian O'Keefe.
Fly names are apocryphal, and in some cases fictional. Author assumes no fault, liability, nor is subject to legal action. Use at own discretion. Fish responsibly.
Step-By-Step Instructions
Hook: #6 - #4
Thread: Tan, Flat-Waxed or other heavy thread
Eyes: Gold Bead-Chain, Medium
Tail: Tan/Sand Marabou or Bunny
Legs: Pumpkin Sili-Legs
Body: Blond Craft Fur 'underfur', dubbed
Weed Guard: 15-20 lb. stiff mono.
Step #1: Secure hook in vise and tie in small clump of tan marabou or bunny at bend, extending about a hook-length back. Trim and tie down.
Step #2: Double back a strand of Sili-Legs and tie in at bend so 2 strands are on one side of the hook shank.
Step #3: Double the spare loop back over itself and tie in on opposite side of hook shank. Trim about even with marabou tail.
Step #4: Tie in the eyes at the hook bend. I don't use standard figure-8 wraps. Instead, I make 4-6 wraps one way (which pulls the eyes to an angle) then 4-6 the other way (which should straighten the eyes). I find this increases the tension on the eyes and is as effective as figure-8's with way less work.
Side note here: I don't use superglue on my eyes since that keeps the eyes from twisting... duh, you say. Well, when a bonefish eats a fly it crushes it in its 'crushers' - the teeth in the back of the throat. This usually twists the eyes, and let's you know the fish has eaten the fly. A bonefish's take is often so subtle that you can miss it. Seeing the twisted eyes is a visual cue that you're at least using the right fly. This can keep you from changing flies incessantly. It also means that you're moving the fly correctly, sincethe fish ate it. Perhaps there was slack in the line (which very often happens when we let go of the fly-line on the last cast) or we paused too long between strips. Always keep tension on the fly, even when it isn't moving. This helps you feel for the pickup.
Step #5: Make a dubbing loop with the thread and secure.
Step #6: Insert your spinning tool in the bottom of the loop and fill the loop with the Craft Fur underfur. I typically make my loop about 2½"-3" long and spread the material out to make it sparse.
Step #7: Spin the dubbing with your dubbing tool and wind it around the hook to form the body. Pay careful attention to covering the area between the eyes adequately.
Step #8: Wrap dubbing till just short of the hook eye and tie off with several wraps.
Fly rides hook point up. I like to fish this fly with short hops or twitches. Since the materials are angled up off the bend the fly won't track straight when stripped long. Instead, it tends to lean over on it's side, which can seem to put bones off. Keep the twitches short: 2-3 inches max, and watch the fish for a pickup. This fly has lots of presence under water and plenty of action even when sitting still. It's not unusual for the fish to pick it up cold of the bottom, so it can be moved minimally and left in the 'zone' for long time. It's coloration makes it a great choice over turtle grass. << Back to FLYTYING Page
