Fly Tyer's Bench

Lesson #2: The Simple Shrimp

(Fly names are apocryphal, and in some cases, fictional. Author assumes no liability, fault nor is subject to legal action.)

Over the years my time at the vise has been aimed at one goal, simplicity. I tie all my own flies, so I want to make my tying sessions as productive as possible. With that in mind I've simplified a lot of my favorite patterns, dropping things like rubber legs off crabs, extra flash, and other trappings that we typically see in the flyshop bins. The results were surprising: not only did the flies continue to catch fish, but in some cases outfished the original patterns.

Here's a pattern that, tying wise, is based pretty strongly on Brian O'Keefe's Bonefish Turd. As for color and material, it's based on Vaverka's Mantis Shrimp - a killer bonefish pattern (that I've always said needs a weedguard). Blond Craft Fur is about my favorite material for bonefish flies; there's just something about that color and translucency that get's fish to bite. It has zero bouyancy, so it sinks fast - always a paramount goal for bonefish flies - and doesn't absorb water like wool or other natural materials, so it lands quietly on the water. In this pattern I use the 'underfur' from regular old Craft Fur (not the Select stuff) for the dubbing. What I like to do is tie up some Gotchas or Clousers first using the long fibers for the wings and saving the underfur for dubbing on these flies.

Hook: #6 - #4
Thread: Tan, Flat-Waxed or other heavy thread
Eyes: Gold Bead-Chain, Medium
Tail: Tan/Sand Marabou or Bunny
Legs: Pumpkin Sili-Legs
Body: Blond Craft Fur 'underfur', dubbed
Weed Guard: 15-20 lb. stiff mono.

Step 1:

Step 1: Secure hook in vise and tie in small clump of tan marabou or bunny at bend, extending about a hook-length back. Trim and tie down.

Step 2:

Step 2: Double back a strand of Sili-Legs and tie in at bend so 2 strands are on one side of the hook shank.

Step 3:

Step 3: Double the spare loop back over itself and tie in on opposite side of hook shank. Trim about even with marabou tail.

Step 4:

Step 4: Tie in the eyes at the hook bend. I don't use standard figure-8 wraps. Instead, I make 4-6 wraps one way (which pulls the eyes to an angle) then 4-6 the other way (which should straighten the eyes). I find this increases the tension on the eyes and is as effective as figure-8's with way less work.

Side note here: I don't use superglue on my eyes since that keeps the eyes from twisting... duh, you say. Well, when a bonefish eats a fly he crushes it in his 'crushers' - the teeth in the back of his throat. This will usually twist the eyes, and let's me know the fish has eaten the fly. A bonefish take is often so subtle that beginners (and, yes, even experts) can miss it. Seeing the twisted eyes is a visual cue that you're at least using the right fly. This can be important and keep you from changing flies incessantly. It also means that you're moving the fly correctly, since otherwise the fish wouldn't have eaten it. For beginners, it probably means there was slack in the line (which very often happens when they let go of the fly-line on the last cast) or they paused too long between strips. Always keep tension on the fly, even when it isn't moving. This helps you feel for the pickup.

Simple Shrimp: Page 2 >>>

If you have thoughts on bonefish flies, comments on these instructions, or would like to book your own Cayman bonefishing trip please use our Inquiries page or email guide Davin Ebanks at davin@fish-bones.com.