This is a reverse-engineered version of The Usual: a great bonefish shrimp fly. It’s an evolution on Vaverka’s Mantis Shrimp, but I also borrowed from Brian O’Keefe’s Bonefish Turd (one of my favourite bonefish patterns). I tied the Simple Shrimp to display a “defensive” posture when sitting. The legs are splayed, and when stripped they “kick”, so they have lots of action. The collar (optional) is an old FL Keys guide trick, and helps this shrimp fly land softer for tailing bonefish.
I tie this fly in several variations: some with light weight and palmered collar, and some heavier with no collar. The step-by-step below outlines the standard Simple Shrimp, which is a slimmer profile without collar so it sinks a bit faster. Usually, you want a bonefish fly to sink quickly, getting down to the depth the fish are feeding.
Material Notes
Blonde Craft Fur is my favorite material for bonefish flies; there’s something about the color and translucency that get fish to bite. It has zero bouyancy, so it sinks fast—always a paramount goal for bonefish flies—and doesn’t absorb water like wool or other natural materials, so it lands quietly on the water. Also, it’s coloration makes it a great choice over turtle grass or sand. Feel free to experiment with various color patterns. I’ve had luck with pink, white and hot-orange. This is such an easy pattern to modify; have fun with it!
Fishing Notes
Fly rides hook point up. Fish with short hops or twitches. Since the materials are angled up off the bend the fly won’t track straight when stripped long. Instead, it tends to lean over on it’s side, which seems to put bones off. (I have no idea why.) So, keep the strips short: 2-3 inches max, and watch the fish for a pickup. This fly has lots of presence under water and plenty of action even when sitting still. It’s not unusual for the fish to pick it up cold of the bottom, so it can be moved minimally and left in the ‘zone’ for long time. However, make sure you keep the slack out of your line, as the take is often subtle.